(Vous trouverez la version française de cet article ici.)
I was in Europe for 2 weeks at the end of November. The first 6 days I was in Munich, for a work seminar.
I arrived on a Sunday, and had the afternoon to myself to explore the city. I walked around the Theresienwiese & the neighbouring quarter for a bit before trying to find Marais, a café I wanted to try. I missed it the first time I passed in front of it… blame it on the jetlag & my sleep-deprived state ;)
I was still nursing a bad cough, so I ordered a homemade lemon-ginger tea (frisch aufgekochten Zitrone-Ingwer Tee). It was pretty good!
To eat, I ordered a Panini (Panini mit Scarmoza, Pilzcreme, gekochtem Bio Prager Schinken), which I thought was OK, but I didn’t much like the Pilzcreme. The meat tasted good though.
For both I paid 14Euros (with some tip).
Parkstrasse 2, corner Schwanthalerstrasse
Wir machen cupcakes!
Afterwards I went towards the historic center of the city. I walked around for a while, and then I decided that it was time for dessert. So I started looking around for the Wir machen cupcakes. And then I realized the plan I had did not list all the tiny streets in this area. So I walked for a good 30 minutes, almost giving up 3-4 times, but each time feeling that I was getting closer. And then, success! I found them!
Tiny but very cute inside (there are 2 small tables with a few chairs inside), they had on offer 7-8 flavors that day. I had an Erdbeerküsschen (strawberry kiss) cupcake while I was there, and then I took a Pumpkin chaï to go.
It was very, very good. The icing not too sweet, the texture of the cupcake perfect, the taste quite good.
I had the pumpkin chaï later in the evening, once I was back at the hotel. You could taste the pumpkin and the chai spices very well. I’m not a big fan of pumpkin, but this one won me over!
The cupcakes were 3.50-4Euros each (I don’t remember exactly).
Breakfast / Frühstück
The breakfast was provided by the hotel, and it was the typical, awesome German breakfast! Plenty of Brötchen (small breads) (there were 6-7 kinds that I could see), cold meats, cheese, veggies, müsli, yogourts, jams, fruits, scrambled eggs, sausage, with juice, tea and coffee. I tried a different kind of Brötchen every day :) I realized when I went in the Butterbrot Bäkerei (butterbread bakery), just around the corner from our hotel, that the Brötchen probably came from there (they had all the same kinds, and looked like the ones we had for breakfast). I don’t have any pics of said awesome breakfast and Brötchen though.
open every day, closes at 1pm Wednesdays and Saturdays
Lunch was also covered by our hotel. They served mostly organic (called Bio in Germany) products, each meal started with the most delicious soup, then there was a salad, the main course and some dessert. From my notes, I see that I had:
-Spätzle Suppe (Spätzle is a kind of noodle. There are many varieties.)
-Kartoffelpuffer with steak (Potato pancake)
-Kürbissuppe (pumpkin soup) (I was skeptical (ugh, pumpkin), but I loved it!)
-Pork with Spätzle
-Apfelkuchen (apple cake)
-Pfannkuchensuppe (thinly cut crepes in brot)
-Lambsrahmgulasch mit Reis (lamb cream goulash), probably my favourite meal.
-Meerrettischsuppe (horseradish soup. I liked it)
I wish I had written down all the menus. Everything was very good! I really liked the Spätzle, I’ll have to find recipes for it to make some at home :)
When I told a German friend of mine that I was going to check out the Götterspeise store while I was in Munich, she made such a disgusted face, and I didn’t understand why. She explained that Götterspeise is usually some sort of red-brown jelly, kind of like Jell-o. A quick research revealed that it is indeed Jell-o. When I explained that it was a fancy chocolates & sweets shop, she relaxed a bit, but still seemed unsure.
I went to the store Monday evening after the seminar, with a new friend. Their windows were already decorated for Christmas.
We went inside… The store is in 2 rooms, in the second room is also a café where you can order & eat on one of their mini tables. They had many kinds of fine chocolates on their shelves, but also cookies, candies, teas, some xmas decorations (including a Weihnachtsgurke (xmas cucumber?!?) (I looked it up & found that it’s actually an American tradition: you hang the cucumber in the xmas tree, and whoever finds it will have lots of luck in the coming year). I bought for 43Euros worth of chocolates, sea salt caramel, cookies, and a Weihnachtsgurke :)
Hofbräuhaus and News Bar
After the Götterspeise, we walked downtown some more. My friend showed me the Hofbräuhaus, THE main brewery/beer hall in Munich, with long wooden tables (some of them always reserved for the regular customers), and even lockers for the regulars’ beer mugs!
We then took the U-Bahn (metro/subway) to the university, to try the News Bar, which was recommended by her travel guide (Cartoville Munich from Gallimard). It was a good recommendation :)
We both had the carrot-potato soup. I had the pangasius with lime, served with veggies and rice. It was a very good portion. I didn’t finish my rice & veggies. The fish was delicious! Well, everything was :) With tip, the meal was 18Euros.
We went back on Thursday for drinks before supper. We had the special of the week (whose name I forget): it was with lemon, lime juice, sugar, and more ingredients (some alcohol named Vital, Vschal?), which was good, and we shared a mixed plate of appetizers (some nachos, chicken wings, springrolls, mini-chicken skewers, potato wedges and grilled veggies). Once again, all was very good. So I’d recommend it too!
site web (musical website)
Glühwein (mulled wine)
I had my first Glühwein on German soil since December 2010 (and back then, I had been disappointed) on the Wednesday. There was a tiny corner store/café in front of our hotel, which served Glühwein for 2.50Euros a cup. I found it very, very good.
We went back on Friday after our Seminar was over, before some of us (including myself) had to go to the train station.
Kiosk Sankt Moritz
There was a supper organized for all the seminar participants on Wednesday evening. We went to a local café/restaurant near our hotel called Ringelnatz. I had a salad with grilled goat cheese & olives (Salat mit gebrannte Ziegenkäse und Oliven). I took some herbal tea to go with it. 15Euros with tip. I liked my salad, the olives & grilled cheese especially.
Schwabinger 7 – Pub (Kneipe)
After the restaurant Wednesday evening some of us went our for drinks at the nearby Schwabinger 7. It was also recommended by one of my new friends’ travel guide, as a bar with old rock music. The ambiance was very nice :)
Maroni + Dallmayr
We had our Thursday afternoon mostly free (the seminar finished earlier that day). We walked downtown some more, and had some Maroni (warm chestnuts) from a stand in the Weihnachtsmarkt (xmas market).
I thought they were OK. It was my first time eating warm chestnuts: the taste was very subtle, and they were somewhat dry. (A friend of mine later told me she ate hers dunked in wine, I’ll have to try that next time!) We paid 3Euros for 10 Maroni.
Then, following our seminar organiser’s advice, we went to Dallmayr, a fine grocery store. It’s HUGE, with several different sections. There are fresh fruits & veggies, fresh meats, cheeses, fishes, meals to go, nuts, etc. There there are sections for chocolates, cookies, jams, stollen/fruit breads, wines, alcohols. They even sell candied rose petals and candied violet flowers! To eat! (They were 14 Euros a box, I didn’t take any.) I bought a sample sized xmas jam and a Swabich fruit bread (Schwabisches Früchtbrot). On the second floor there is a gift shop and a coffeeshop.
A Swabisch fruit cake and a small jar of xmas jam. I shared part of the fruit cake with friends the other day; one of them said it tasted exactly like the peravec cake that her Alsacian grandmother used to make.
C. caught up with us as the Newsbar on Thursday (after our drinks). We went for more drinks in a nearby bar (Kneipe), where I tried to drink a small helles (white beer) (small = 500ml in Germany, or at least in Munich!). I drank like 50ml.
At least I tried :)
Then he took us to a restaurant called Fei scho. They mix up traditional Vietnamese cuisine with Bavarian (Bayrisch) cuisine. We ordered some mixed plates of dim sums. They were served with salads (shredded carrot and shredded red cabbage). There was aubergine, spinach, spinach-feta, peas, Ente (duck), Gulasch (which tasted like Québec tourtière!), beef, some meat with cinnamon and some other meat were weren’t sure about. They were all very good, and were served dim sum style. I thought the mix of the 2 cuisines was very interesting! I’d definitely recommend it if you’re in the Munich area. I paid 10Euros with tip for my 5 piece mix plate.
My top picks for Munich are Fei Scho, the Kiosk Glühwein, Wir machen cupcakes, News Bar and Götterspeise.
I did not get to try all the places that I would’ve liked to try while in Munich, and I got some more recommendations while I was there. So for next time, here’s a “to eat” list :)
Schöntag, Herzogstrasse 86, closed Mondays, delicious cakes.
Gartensalon, Türkenstrasse 90, closed Mondays.
München 72, Kohlstrasse 11, closed Mondays.
Charlie, Schyrenstrasse 8, closed Mondays, Vietnamese cuisine.
Bon Valeur, Sonnenstrasse 17.
Zum Kloster, Preysingstrasse 77, rustic, German cuisine. reviews on Qype, the German Yelp!.
Hei Luigi, Holzstrasse 29.
Brenner, Maximillianstrasse 15.
Schiffmacher Eis Bar, Prälat-Sistl-Strasse 4.
Schnelle Liebe, Thalkirchner Strasse 12, closed Sundays during the winter, German bistro.
No mi ya, Wörthstrasse 7, japanese-bavarian fusion cuisine.
Bar Sehnsucht, Amalienstrasse 26, retro/pin-up decoration!
Bubble tea – Meito
On my way back to my hotel, I noticed a bubble tea place! (Yay, bubble tea in Germany!) I didn’t have the time to try it though. Feilitzschstrasse 6. website
I heard that Käfer was also a good fine grocery store.
Kräuter und Wurzelsepp, spices store which kept its 1900s look, Blumenstrasse 15, closed Sundays.
Regular grocery stores:
Where I found several bags of Haribo ginger lemon(Ingwer-Zitrone), the BEST kind, for .89Euros!
(Many recommendations come from the following travel guides: Lonely Planet Munich, Cool München and Guide Voir Top 10 Munich.)
Also worth noting: there’s the Tollwood festival (june-july in the Olympiapark, november-december on the Theresienwiese).
And there are many restaurants, cafés & breakfast & brunch places recommended in the Guide Voir Top 10 Munich.